FlibZo My Travel Experiences

Discovering Tunisia’s Coastal Charm: A Fortnight in Sousse

Choosing a destination for a longer, immersive trip can be quite the delightful challenge. I craved somewhere that offered a genuine blend of history, sun-drenched beaches, and a vibrant cultural pulse, without feeling overly commercialized or overrun. My gaze kept drifting towards the southern Mediterranean, and that’s when Sousse, Tunisia, truly caught my eye. It promised ancient medinas, glittering marinas, and a rich tapestry of Roman, Arab, and Ottoman influences – all wrapped up in an inviting coastal package. What I found was a city that not only delivered on those promises but surpassed them, offering an unforgettable fortnight of exploration, relaxation, and genuine connection.

Sousse, often dubbed the “Pearl of the Sahel,” is more than just a resort town; it’s a living museum where the echoes of centuries past mingle with the lively rhythm of modern Tunisian life. Its UNESCO-listed Medina, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and bustling souks, immediately captivated my imagination. Beyond the ancient walls, I discovered pristine beaches, a charming marina at Port El Kantaoui, and a warmth from its people that made me feel instantly at home. This wasn’t just a holiday; it was an adventure into a corner of the world I’d only dreamed of, and I’m so excited to share every detail of my 14-day journey with you.

Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions

Stepping off the plane at Enfidha-Hammamet International Airport (NBE), the warm Mediterranean air immediately enveloped me, carrying hints of salt and something subtly exotic. A pre-arranged taxi whisked me away, the landscape gradually transforming from arid plains to the vibrant coastal stretch. I had opted for a hotel near the beach but still close enough to the Medina to feel connected to the city’s heart.

After checking in, a wave of anticipation (and a slight travel fatigue) washed over me. I resisted the urge to simply collapse and instead embarked on my first exploratory stroll. My initial walk was along a stretch of Boujaafar Beach, just as the late afternoon sun began its descent. The golden sand felt soft beneath my feet, and the gentle lapping of the waves was the perfect antidote to a day of travel. I watched families enjoying the evening, children splashing at the water’s edge, and felt an immediate sense of peace. For dinner, I found a charming, unpretentious seafood restaurant nearby, where I indulged in the freshest grilled fish – a simple, perfect introduction to Tunisian flavors.

• Practical Tip: Pre-booking an airport transfer is highly recommended for convenience, especially after a long flight. Taxis are plentiful but agree on a price before you set off.

Day 2: Stepping Back in Time in the Medina

My second day was dedicated entirely to Sousse’s crown jewel: its UNESCO World Heritage-listed Medina. I started early, before the midday heat and the peak crowds. Entering through Bab El Bahr, one of the Medina’s main gates, felt like crossing a threshold into another era. The air immediately filled with a symphony of sounds – the gentle chatter of vendors, the distant call to prayer, the clatter of artisan tools – and a kaleidoscope of scents: spices, leather, mint tea, and something indefinably ancient.

My first stop was the Ribat, an imposing fortress-monastery from the 8th century. Climbing its watchtower offered a breathtaking panoramic view of the entire Medina, stretching out to the sparkling sea. It was incredible to imagine the sentinels who once guarded this coast. Next, I explored the Great Mosque, its stark, powerful architecture a testament to early Islamic design. Wandering through the labyrinthine souks was an experience in itself. I admired intricate carpets, vibrant ceramics, fragrant spices, and beautifully crafted leather goods. While I wasn’t in a rush to buy, the friendly bartering and the lively atmosphere were utterly captivating. I stopped for a refreshing mint tea at a tiny cafe tucked away in an alley, observing the daily rhythm of life unfold around me. For lunch, I sampled a delicious brik (a crispy pastry filled with egg and tuna) from a street vendor, a truly authentic taste of Tunisia.

• Practical Tip: Wear comfortable shoes for exploring the Medina. Be prepared to haggle politely in the souks; it’s part of the experience. Many vendors speak some English, French, or German.

Day 3: Ancient Artifacts and Beach Bliss

After the intense sensory input of the Medina, Day 3 offered a more relaxed pace. I began my morning at the Sousse Archaeological Museum, housed within the Kasbah. This museum boasts one of the world’s finest collections of Roman mosaics, and it did not disappoint. The sheer artistry and detail in these ancient artworks were astonishing, depicting scenes from mythology, daily life, and nature. It offered a fascinating glimpse into Sousse’s Roman past as Hadrumetum. I spent a good two hours here, completely absorbed.

In the afternoon, it was time for some serious beach relaxation. I headed back to Boujaafar Beach, but this time, I found a quieter spot a little further down the coast. The sun was warm, the water invitingly clear, and the gentle sea breeze kept things comfortable. I rented a sun lounger and umbrella, settled in with a good book, and simply let the world drift by. The feeling of the soft sand between my toes and the rhythmic sound of the waves was pure bliss. As the day wound down, I enjoyed a leisurely walk along the promenade, soaking in the coastal ambiance before finding a local restaurant for a hearty Tunisian dinner.

• Practical Tip: The Sousse Archaeological Museum is a must-visit for history enthusiasts. It’s well-maintained and provides excellent context for the region’s past.

Day 4: Port El Kantaoui’s Charms

Today, I ventured north to Port El Kantaoui, Sousse’s purpose-built tourist resort and marina, just a short taxi ride away. It’s a stark contrast to the ancient Medina, with its gleaming white buildings, manicured gardens, and bustling yacht-filled harbor. I enjoyed a leisurely morning strolling along the marina, admiring the impressive boats and the lively atmosphere. There are plenty of cafes and shops here, making it a pleasant place for a relaxed wander.

I decided to treat myself to a short glass-bottom boat trip, offering a different perspective of the coastline and a glimpse of the underwater world. While not teeming with exotic marine life, it was a fun and relaxing way to spend an hour on the water. For lunch, I found a delightful restaurant overlooking the marina and savored fresh seafood while watching the world go by. In the afternoon, I browsed some of the boutiques and souvenir shops, finding a few unique gifts to take home. Port El Kantaoui also has a lovely golf course and an aqua park, though I opted for a more low-key experience.

• Practical Tip: Taxis from Sousse to Port El Kantaoui are readily available and reasonably priced. Agree on the fare beforehand. It’s a great spot for a relaxed day out, especially if you enjoy people-watching and a more modern resort feel.

Day 5: Relaxation and Local Flavors

After a few days of active exploration, I dedicated Day 5 to pure relaxation and diving deeper into local life. My morning began with a rejuvenating experience at a traditional Tunisian hammam. It was an incredibly refreshing and authentic experience, with hot steam, invigorating scrubs, and a relaxing massage. I emerged feeling utterly cleansed and revitalized, ready to face anything.

In the afternoon, I decided to explore some of Sousse’s local cafes outside the main tourist areas. I found a charming spot where locals gathered for coffee and animated conversations. I ordered a strong, sweet Turkish coffee and simply sat, observing, listening, and soaking in the everyday rhythm of the city. It was a wonderful way to feel less like a tourist and more like a temporary resident. For dinner, I sought out a small, family-run restaurant recommended by a local I’d met. They served the most incredible couscous aux légumes I’ve ever tasted, rich with aromatic spices and tender vegetables. The hospitality was incredibly warm, and I left feeling nourished in both body and soul.

• Practical Tip: Ask your hotel for recommendations for a reputable hammam. For authentic food experiences, venture slightly off the main tourist paths and look for places bustling with locals.

Day 6: Monastir’s Fortresses and Mausoleums

Today was my first proper day trip, a short journey south to the picturesque coastal city of Monastir, easily accessible by local train or shared taxi (louage). Monastir is famous for its remarkably preserved Ribat, even more expansive than Sousse’s, and for being the birthplace and burial site of Tunisia’s first president, Habib Bourguiba.

The Monastir Ribat, perched dramatically on the coastline, is a truly magnificent structure. I spent hours exploring its various courtyards, watchtowers, and prayer halls. Climbing to the top offered even more spectacular views of the turquoise sea and the city. It felt like stepping onto a movie set (and indeed, it has been one!). Afterwards, I visited the Bourguiba Mausoleum, an opulent and impressive monument dedicated to the former president. Its golden dome and elegant architecture stood out against the blue sky. The surrounding cemetery, with its simple white tombs, provided a poignant contrast. I enjoyed a fresh seafood lunch at a restaurant overlooking the harbor before heading back to Sousse, feeling enriched by the day’s historical insights.

• Practical Tip: The train from Sousse to Monastir is very cheap and offers a scenic coastal journey. Louages (shared taxis) are faster but require you to wait for them to fill up.

Day 7: A Taste of Tunisia: Cooking Class and Market Exploration

One of the best ways to truly understand a culture is through its food. So, for Day 7, I joined a half-day Tunisian cooking class. We started with a visit to a local market, not the touristy souks, but a bustling, authentic food market where locals do their daily shopping. The vibrant colors of fresh produce, the aroma of herbs, and the lively banter between vendors were intoxicating. Our instructor guided us through selecting fresh ingredients, explaining local varieties and traditional uses.

Back at the kitchen, we learned to prepare several classic Tunisian dishes, including a hearty tajine (more like a frittata or casserole here than the Moroccan stew) and, of course, harissa, the fiery chili paste that is a staple of Tunisian cuisine. The best part was, of course, sharing the meal we had prepared together. It was delicious, and the experience provided not just culinary skills but also a deeper appreciation for the role of food in Tunisian family life. The afternoon was spent digesting and reflecting on the morning’s delicious endeavors.

• Practical Tip: Look for cooking classes offered by local guesthouses or specialized tour operators. It’s an excellent way to learn about the culture and bring a taste of Tunisia home with you.

Day 8: Beach Day and Water Sports

After the previous day’s culinary adventure, I craved more time by the sea. I decided to dedicate Day 8 to pure beach enjoyment. I returned to a different section of Boujaafar Beach, where there were options for water sports. I tried my hand at jet-skiing for the first time, an exhilarating experience gliding over the waves. Later, I enjoyed a leisurely swim in the clear, warm waters.

The beauty of Sousse’s coastline is that you can find both lively, amenity-rich stretches and quieter, more secluded spots, depending on your preference. I spent hours simply soaking up the sun, reading, and occasionally dipping into the refreshing sea. For lunch, I grabbed a casual sandwich from a beachside cafe. As the sun began to dip, painting the sky in fiery hues, I took a long walk along the shore, collecting seashells and reflecting on the simple joys of a beach vacation. It was the perfect contrast to the historical explorations, offering a chance to simply unwind and recharge.

• Practical Tip: Many beach resorts offer water sports equipment for rent. Always confirm prices beforehand. Sunscreen and a hat are essential, even on cloudy days.

Day 9: The Grandeur of El Djem Amphitheatre

This day trip was one I had been particularly looking forward to: a visit to the magnificent Roman Amphitheatre of El Djem, another UNESCO World Heritage site, located inland from Sousse. Getting there involved a louage (shared taxi) and took about an hour and a half, but every minute of the journey was worth it.

Standing before the colossal ruins of El Djem is an awe-inspiring experience. It’s one of the largest and best-preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world, rivaling even the Colosseum in Rome in terms of grandeur and scale. Unlike the Colosseum, you can explore almost every part of it, including the underground passages where gladiators and wild animals awaited their fate. I spent hours wandering through its vast corridors, climbing to the upper tiers, and imagining the roar of the crowds. The sheer engineering marvel of it left me speechless. There’s also a small, but excellent, museum nearby with beautiful mosaics unearthed from the area. It was a truly profound historical experience.

• Practical Tip: Wear sturdy shoes for exploring El Djem. Bring water, especially in warmer months, as there’s little shade inside the amphitheatre. Louages are the most convenient way to get there from Sousse.

Day 10: Modern Sousse and Souvenir Hunting

After the grand scale of El Djem, I spent Day 10 exploring a different side of Sousse – its modern areas and doing some serious souvenir hunting. While the Medina is fantastic for traditional crafts, I wanted to see what else the city offered. I wandered through the newer parts of the city, observing the bustling shops, cafes, and everyday life that hums outside the ancient walls.

I found a modern shopping center where I could buy some contemporary Tunisian fashion and other goods. Later, I revisited the Medina, but this time with a specific shopping list in mind. I practiced my haggling skills, purchasing some beautiful hand-painted ceramics, a small leather bag, and a selection of fragrant spices to take home. It was fun to interact with the vendors, sharing smiles and a few broken phrases in Arabic. For lunch, I tried a local pizzeria – a surprisingly popular choice in Tunisia, often with unique local toppings. The afternoon was a relaxed affair, enjoying my purchases and people-watching from a cafe terrace.

• Practical Tip: Don’t be afraid to explore beyond the Medina for a different shopping experience. For souvenirs, compare prices and don’t be shy about negotiating.

Day 11: A Day of Reflection and Re-Discovery

By Day 11, I felt a deep connection to Sousse. Instead of planning a new major activity, I decided to revisit a few favorite spots and simply soak in the atmosphere. I started my morning with a long, leisurely walk along the promenade, watching the fishermen and early morning joggers. I revisited a section of the Medina that I had only briefly passed through on my first day, discovering new hidden alleys and small artisan workshops.

I found a quiet cafe with a rooftop terrace overlooking the sea, where I spent a couple of hours writing in my journal, processing all the incredible experiences I’d had. It was a day of quiet contemplation, allowing the impressions of the past ten days to truly sink in. For lunch, I sought out a small ftira (a traditional flatbread) stand, enjoying the simple, delicious flavors. The afternoon was spent relaxing by the hotel pool, reading, and simply enjoying the warm sun. It was a perfect day to recharge before my final major excursion.

• Practical Tip: Don’t feel pressured to pack every single day with activities. Sometimes, the best way to experience a place is to simply slow down and observe.

Day 12: Kairouan’s Holy Grandeur

My final major day trip took me inland to Kairouan, another UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Islam’s holiest cities, considered the fourth holiest site after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem. The journey by louage took about an hour and a half, traversing vast olive groves.

Kairouan is truly an atmospheric city. My first stop was the magnificent Great Mosque of Kairouan, a stunning example of Islamic architecture and one of the oldest mosques in the world. Its vast courtyard, ancient minaret, and intricately carved doors were breathtaking. I spent a long time simply absorbing the spiritual tranquility of the place. Next, I visited the Aghlabid Basins, ancient water reservoirs that once supplied the entire city, an impressive feat of engineering. I also explored the Sidi Sahab Mausoleum, often called the “Barber’s Mosque,” known for its beautiful tiles and peaceful courtyards. Kairouan is also famous for its carpets, and I visited a local workshop to see the intricate process of hand-weaving. The city felt profoundly authentic and historically significant.

• Practical Tip: Dress modestly when visiting religious sites in Kairouan (shoulders and knees covered for both men and women; women will also need a headscarf for the mosque, often provided at the entrance).

Day 13: Last Souvenirs and Farewell Dinner

My penultimate day was a mix of last-minute souvenir shopping and savoring the final moments of my Sousse adventure. I returned to the Medina one last time, picking up a few small gifts for family and friends, bargaining good-naturedly for a beautiful ceramic tagine dish. I also made sure to stock up on some local olive oil and harissa.

In the afternoon, I revisited my favorite cafe for one last mint tea, watching the world go by and reflecting on the incredible journey. As the sun began to set, casting a warm glow over the ancient city, I walked along the beach, feeling a pang of sadness that my trip was drawing to a close. For my farewell dinner, I chose a restaurant with a rooftop terrace overlooking the Medina, enjoying a delicious meal of fresh seafood and traditional Tunisian salads as the city lights began to twinkle below. It was a perfect culmination of my Sousse experience – a blend of history, vibrant culture, and delicious food, all under the Tunisian sky.

• Practical Tip: Allow ample time for souvenir shopping on your last day. Consider picking up local olive oil, dates, and spices – they make fantastic gifts.

Day 14: Departure

My 14-day adventure had flown by. After a final Tunisian breakfast of fresh bread, olives, and olive oil, I packed my bags, filled with wonderful memories and unique souvenirs. The pre-arranged taxi arrived promptly, and as I drove away from Sousse, I looked back at the city, feeling a deep sense of gratitude for the experiences it had offered.

Sousse isn’t just a destination; it’s an experience that awakens the senses and enriches the soul. From the ancient whispers of the Medina to the vibrant energy of its souks, the soothing embrace of its beaches, and the profound history of its surrounding sites, this coastal gem truly has something for everyone. My fortnight here was an unforgettable blend of cultural immersion, historical discovery, and pure relaxation. If you’re yearning for an authentic, engaging, and incredibly rewarding travel adventure that promises both ancient wonders and modern charm, I wholeheartedly encourage you to consider planning your own Tunisian coastal escape. You won’t regret it!