My French Riviera Adventure: An Unforgettable 4-Day Nice Itinerary
The French Riviera. Just the name conjures images of sun-drenched beaches, azure waters, and a lifestyle dripping with effortless glamour. For years, I’d dreamt of experiencing its magic firsthand, and when the opportunity finally arose, one city stood out as the perfect base for my exploration: Nice. A vibrant, captivating city that perfectly blends the relaxed charm of the Mediterranean with the sophisticated elegance of France, Nice is more than just a gateway to the Côte d’Azur; it’s a destination in its own right.
I chose Nice for its unique character – a city that feels both grand and incredibly welcoming. It possesses an intoxicating mix of Italianate architecture, colorful markets, a thriving art scene, and, of course, that iconic pebble beach lapped by the Baie des Anges. I wanted a trip that offered a balance of cultural immersion, breathtaking scenery, delicious food, and a healthy dose of relaxation. What I discovered over four glorious days was a city that exceeded every expectation, revealing layers of history, beauty, and culinary delights at every turn. This isn’t just a travel guide; it’s a recounting of my personal journey, an intimate look at how I experienced Nice, complete with the practical tips and heartfelt recommendations I gathered along the way. If you’re dreaming of a French Riviera escape, let me take you through my unforgettable 4-day Nice itinerary, a journey that might just inspire your own.
Day 1: Stepping into Vieux Nice’s Embrace
My arrival in Nice felt like a warm hug from the Mediterranean sun. After dropping my bags at a charming boutique hotel just a stone’s throw from the Promenade des Anglais, my first instinct was to dive straight into the heart of the city’s oldest quarter: Vieux Nice, or Old Nice. And what a dive it was!
The moment I stepped into the labyrinthine alleys of Old Nice, I was transported. The air hummed with a lively energy, a symphony of chatter, laughter, and the distant clang of church bells. The narrow cobblestone streets, barely wide enough for a scooter, wound between buildings painted in vibrant ochres, terracotta reds, and sun-faded yellows, their shutters a contrasting splash of green or blue. Laundry hung from wrought-iron balconies, swaying gently in the breeze, adding to the authentic, lived-in feel. It felt like stepping onto a movie set, yet every corner revealed genuine life unfolding.
My first major stop was the famous Cours Saleya Flower Market. Even if you’re not a flower enthusiast, this market is a sensory explosion. The vibrant hues of roses, lilies, and exotic blooms created a kaleidoscope of color, while the sweet, delicate fragrance hung heavy in the air. Beyond the flowers, local vendors proudly displayed mounds of fresh produce – plump tomatoes, shiny aubergines, and aromatic herbs – alongside artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and jars of local olive tapenade. I couldn’t resist buying a small bouquet of lavender, its scent a comforting reminder of Provence, and a bag of sun-dried olives that were utterly delicious.
Practical Tip: The Cours Saleya market operates Tuesday through Sunday mornings. Go early (before 10 AM) for the freshest produce and to avoid the biggest crowds. On Mondays, it transforms into an antique and flea market, which is also worth a visit if your itinerary aligns.
Wandering deeper, I found myself in Place Rossetti, the bustling square dominated by the magnificent Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate. Its Baroque facade and intricate interior were a beautiful contrast to the lively square outside, where people sat at outdoor cafes, sipping coffee and enjoying gelato. This was where I had my first taste of socca, a traditional Niçoise chickpea pancake. Served hot off a massive griddle, with just a sprinkle of pepper, it was surprisingly delicious – crispy on the outside, soft and savory within, and the perfect street food snack. It quickly became a staple for me.
As dusk began to settle, casting a warm golden glow over the rooftops, I made my way to the Promenade des Anglais. Walking along this iconic stretch, with the gentle roar of the waves accompanying me, felt like a quintessential Nice experience. The sky transformed from brilliant blue to soft pastels, then to deep purples as the city lights began to twinkle. For dinner, I chose a small, unassuming restaurant tucked away in Old Nice, where I savored a traditional Salade Niçoise – fresh, vibrant, and exactly what I needed after a day of exploring. The local rosé, chilled to perfection, was the ideal accompaniment. It was a perfect introduction to the charm and flavors of Nice.
Day 2: Panoramic Vistas and Artistic Reflections
My second day in Nice was dedicated to soaking in its stunning natural beauty and delving into its rich artistic heritage. I started my morning with an invigorating climb up Castle Hill (Colline du Château). While there’s an elevator for those who prefer an easier ascent, I chose the stairs, winding my way up through lush greenery. The effort was amply rewarded.
From the top, the panoramic views were nothing short of breathtaking. To one side, the entire sweep of the Baie des Anges stretched out, its azure waters sparkling under the morning sun, the pebble beach a gentle curve. To the other, the terracotta rooftops of Old Nice clustered together, a charming mosaic leading to the bustling port. The famous man-made waterfall cascaded down, adding a refreshing visual and a soothing sound to the experience. I spent a good hour just sitting on a bench, simply absorbing the vista, watching boats sail by, and feeling the gentle sea breeze on my face. It was a moment of pure serenity and one of my favorite memories from the trip.
Practical Tip: Wear comfortable shoes for the climb. While the elevator is convenient, the views from different points on the staircase offer unique perspectives. Don’t forget your camera – this is arguably the best photo spot in Nice. There are also ruins of the old castle and a playground for children at the top.
After descending, I strolled back along the Promenade des Anglais, feeling the warmth of the sun on my skin. The sheer scale of the promenade is impressive, a testament to Nice’s Belle Époque grandeur. While I didn’t swim this day, watching others enjoy the clear waters made me eager for a dip later in my trip.
My afternoon took an artistic turn. Nice is home to several fantastic museums, and I decided to visit the Marc Chagall National Museum. Located slightly outside the city center, it was an easy bus ride away. The museum houses the largest public collection of Chagall’s works, primarily his biblical message series. Walking through the quiet, contemplative spaces, I was mesmerized by the vibrant colors and dreamlike quality of his paintings. Each piece told a story, drawing me into his unique world. I found myself lingering in front of “The Creation of Man,” captivated by its profound imagery and emotional depth. It was a powerful and moving experience, a wonderful contrast to the bustling energy of the city.
Practical Tip: Check museum opening hours and consider purchasing a French Riviera Pass if you plan to visit multiple attractions, as it can offer good value. Bus 5 from the city center will take you directly to the Chagall Museum.
For dinner that evening, I ventured towards the Port Lympia area. I found a delightful seafood restaurant with outdoor seating, where I indulged in fresh grilled fish, perfectly cooked and simply seasoned, accompanied by crisp local vegetables. The ambiance was lively but relaxed, and watching the boats bobbing gently in the harbor under the moonlight was a perfect end to a day filled with beauty, both natural and artistic.
Day 3: Glamour and Medieval Charm Beyond Nice
Day three was an adventure beyond Nice, exploring two iconic destinations on the French Riviera: the medieval village of Eze and the opulent principality of Monaco. This day trip was easily one of the highlights of my entire journey, offering a fascinating contrast of old-world charm and modern-day luxury.
My journey began with a scenic bus ride along the coastal road to Eze Village. The bus itself was an experience, winding along cliff-side roads with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean. As we approached Eze, I could see the ancient village perched dramatically atop a rocky peak, looking like something straight out of a fairy tale.
Stepping off the bus, I immediately felt the difference. Eze is a pedestrian-only village, a labyrinth of narrow, cobbled pathways that twist and turn uphill. The stone buildings, draped in bougainvillea and ivy, exuded centuries of history. Every corner revealed a new charming boutique, an art gallery, or a small café. The climb through the village was steep in places, but the reward was immense. At the very top lies the Jardin Exotique d’Eze, an exotic garden built on the ruins of a medieval castle. Here, amidst a stunning collection of cacti and succulents from around the world, I found the most spectacular views. The 360-degree panorama of the coastline, stretching from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to Italy, was simply astonishing. The deep blue of the sea merged seamlessly with the sky, and the sheer scale of the landscape left me speechless. I spent a long time up there, just breathing in the fresh air and marveling at the beauty.
Practical Tip: Take bus 82 or 112 from Nice (Port Lympia or Nice-Riquier train station). The journey is about 30-40 minutes and offers incredible views. Wear comfortable walking shoes – the village paths are steep and uneven. Aim to go in the morning to avoid the peak afternoon crowds.
From Eze, it was another short and equally scenic bus ride to Monaco. The transition was stark. Gone were the ancient stone walls; instead, sleek skyscrapers, luxury yachts, and impeccably dressed people filled the landscape. Monaco felt like a different world, a playground for the rich and famous.
My first stop was the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, perched on the “Rock” overlooking the harbor. While I didn’t go inside, watching the changing of the guard ceremony was a fun experience. The views from the palace square over Port Hercule, dotted with mega-yachts that looked more like small cruise ships, were impressive. I then wandered down to the famous Monte Carlo Casino. Even if you don’t gamble, it’s worth seeing the opulent architecture and the parade of luxury cars parked outside. I simply admired from afar, soaking in the atmosphere of high stakes and high fashion. A walk around Port Hercule itself was fascinating, marveling at the sheer size and expense of the vessels docked there. It felt a little surreal, a world away from the charming simplicity of Nice.
Practical Tip: To get from Eze to Monaco, take bus 112 or 100. Monaco is compact, so it’s very walkable once you’re there, though there are also public elevators and escalators to help navigate the hilly terrain. Be mindful of prices – everything in Monaco is generally more expensive than Nice.
Returning to Nice that evening, I felt a delightful exhaustion. The day had been packed with diverse experiences. I opted for a more casual dinner near my hotel, reflecting on the contrasts I had witnessed – the timeless beauty of Eze against the glittering modernity of Monaco, both united by the stunning backdrop of the French Riviera.
Day 4: Culinary Deep Dive and Lasting Impressions
My final full day in Nice was dedicated to savoring its culinary heritage and soaking up a few last moments of its unique charm. I wanted to go beyond the typical tourist spots and truly taste the local life.
I started my morning not at Cours Saleya, but at the Marché de la Libération, a bustling local market known for its fresh produce and authentic atmosphere. This market felt more like where the locals shop, and the energy was infectious. The air was filled with the aroma of fresh bread, ripe fruits, and the earthy scent of vegetables. I chatted with a friendly vendor who offered me a taste of local olives, explaining the different varieties. Here, I found a fantastic pissaladière, a delicious onion tart with anchovies and olives, which became my breakfast. It was savory, slightly sweet, and utterly satisfying. I also picked up some fresh figs and local cheese for a picnic later.
Practical Tip: Marché de la Libération is easily accessible by tram and offers a more local, less touristy market experience than Cours Saleya. It’s a great place to buy fresh ingredients if you’re staying in an apartment with a kitchen, or simply to grab ready-to-eat local delicacies.
Armed with my market treasures, I decided to have a relaxed picnic lunch by the sea, finding a quiet spot on the pebble beach just west of the main Promenade. The sound of the waves, the warmth of the sun, and the simple pleasure of fresh local food made for a perfect moment of reflection. It was a chance to truly slow down and appreciate the simple joys of the Riviera lifestyle.
In the afternoon, with a little more time to spare before my evening flight, I decided to explore a lesser-known gem: the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Cathedral. This magnificent cathedral, with its vibrant onion domes and ornate interiors, felt wonderfully out of place in the south of France, a testament to Nice’s history as a winter retreat for Russian aristocracy. The intricate frescoes, gilded icons, and hushed atmosphere offered a peaceful and visually stunning experience, a surprising cultural detour.
Practical Tip: The cathedral has specific visiting hours and a modest dress code (shoulders and knees covered). It’s a short walk or tram ride from the city center and offers a unique architectural and cultural insight.
For my farewell dinner, I wanted something special. I chose a restaurant in the lively Jean Médecin area, known for its modern take on traditional Niçoise cuisine. I indulged in farcis niçois, vegetables stuffed with a savory mixture, and a rich, flavorful seafood pasta. Each dish was a testament to the region’s culinary prowess, a perfect blend of fresh ingredients and Mediterranean influences. As I sipped my final glass of rosé, I reflected on the incredible journey I’d had.
Nice had truly captured my heart. From the bustling energy of its Old Town and the serene beauty of its panoramic views to the rich flavors of its cuisine and the effortless elegance of its Riviera setting, every moment felt like a discovery. It’s a city that invites you to wander, to taste, to relax, and to simply be present.
Go Discover Nice for Yourself!
My 4-day Nice itinerary was a whirlwind of sensory delights, cultural discoveries, and breathtaking landscapes. I arrived with an expectation of sun and sea, but I left with a profound appreciation for Nice’s vibrant history, its delicious food, and the genuine warmth of its people. This city, the unofficial capital of the French Riviera, offers so much more than just a beautiful backdrop; it offers an authentic, rich, and deeply personal travel experience.
Whether you’re a history buff, a food lover, an art enthusiast, or simply someone yearning for a dose of Mediterranean sunshine, Nice has something incredible to offer. My journey through its charming streets, up its scenic hills, and along its stunning coastline left me refreshed, inspired, and already dreaming of my return. I wholeheartedly encourage you to use this itinerary as a starting point, to let your own curiosity guide you, and to discover the magic of this incredible destination through your own eyes. Nice is waiting for you, ready to share its endless charm and create memories that will last a lifetime.
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