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Your Ultimate 5-Day Nice Itinerary: A Love Affair with the Côte d’Azur

From the moment I first laid eyes on photos of Nice, with its shimmering cerulean waters, terracotta rooftops, and the promise of sun-drenched days, I knew I had to go. The French Riviera had always held a mythical allure for me – a place of timeless glamour, artistic inspiration, and an undeniable joie de vivre. But I wasn’t just looking for a fleeting romance; I wanted to truly immerse myself, to peel back the layers of this iconic destination. I craved the scent of lavender and sea salt, the taste of fresh Mediterranean flavors, and the feeling of warm cobblestones beneath my feet. And so, I meticulously planned a 5-day Nice itinerary, hoping to discover the magic that drew so many to its shores. What I found was a city that effortlessly blends old-world charm with vibrant modern life, a place where every corner turned revealed a new delight. This wasn’t just a trip; it was an awakening, a deep dive into the heart of the Côte d’Azur that ultimately stole a piece of my soul. If you’re planning a trip to the French Riviera, particularly a visit to Nice, get ready to fall head over heels, just like I did.

Day 1: Arrival & The Irresistible Charm of Vieux Nice

My journey began with a smooth landing at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, already feeling the gentle warmth of the Mediterranean sun on my skin. A quick taxi ride along the iconic Promenade des Anglais, with glimpses of the impossibly blue sea, brought me to my charming hotel tucked away just a few blocks from the Old Town. After dropping my bags, a wave of excitement washed over me – it was time to explore.

My first foray into Nice was, of course, Vieux Nice, the Old Town. Stepping into its labyrinthine streets felt like entering a different era. The narrow alleyways, paved with smooth, worn stones, were a riot of color. Buildings painted in ochre, burnt orange, and soft pastels leaned towards each other, creating a canopy that offered welcome shade. Window boxes overflowed with vibrant geraniums, and the air hummed with the murmur of conversations, the clinking of glasses, and the distant cry of gulls. I found myself simply wandering, letting my senses guide me. The scent of freshly baked bread mingled with the sweet aroma of flowers from the famous Cours Saleya Market.

The Cours Saleya Market was a feast for the eyes and nose. Rows upon rows of brightly colored flowers, from roses to irises, created a floral tapestry, while nearby stalls showcased local produce – plump tomatoes, glistening olives, and fragrant herbs. I watched as locals haggled good-naturedly, their baskets filling with the day’s fresh bounty. It was here that I had my first taste of authentic Niçoise cuisine: a slice of socca, a savory chickpea pancake cooked over a wood fire, served piping hot and dusted with pepper. Its crispy edges and soft interior were utterly delicious and instantly became a staple of my trip. I also couldn’t resist a slice of pissaladière, a caramelized onion tart with anchovies and olives – salty, sweet, and incredibly satisfying.

As evening approached, I made my way to the Promenade des Anglais, the city’s legendary beachfront walkway. The sun, a fiery orb, began its descent, painting the sky in hues of orange, pink, and purple, reflecting off the calm Mediterranean waters. I found an empty blue chair, one of the many iconic “chaises bleues” that line the promenade, and simply watched the world go by. Joggers, cyclists, and couples strolled hand-in-hand, all bathed in the golden light. The sound of the waves gently lapping against the pebbled shore was a soothing balm after a day of travel and exploration.

For dinner, I sought out a traditional Niçoise restaurant in the Old Town, recommended by my hotel concierge. I indulged in salade Niçoise, made with the freshest local ingredients, followed by daube Niçoise, a rich beef stew slow-cooked in red wine. Paired with a glass of crisp local rosé, it was the perfect end to my first day in this enchanting city.

• Practical Tips for Day 1:
  • Getting Around: Nice Old Town is best explored on foot. Wear comfortable walking shoes!
  • Cours Saleya Market: Go in the morning for the best selection of flowers and produce. The flower market is generally open Tuesday to Sunday mornings. On Mondays, it transforms into an antique market.
  • Food: Don’t miss trying socca and pissaladière from market stalls or small eateries in Vieux Nice. They are authentic and delicious.
  • Accommodation: Staying near the Old Town or the Promenade des Anglais offers easy access to most attractions.

Day 2: Panoramic Views & Coastal Wonders

Waking up refreshed, I was eager to see Nice from a different perspective. My target for the morning was Castle Hill (Colline du Château), the historic site offering unparalleled panoramic views of the city, the Promenade, and the sparkling Baie des Anges. There are a few ways to ascend: a scenic elevator (free!) from the Promenade side, stairs for the more energetic, or a leisurely walk up the sloping paths. I chose the stairs, embracing the gentle climb as a way to earn my views.

The effort was richly rewarded. From the summit, the vista was simply breathtaking. The terracotta rooftops of Nice stretched out below, meeting the vibrant blue of the sea. To one side, the elegant curve of the Promenade des Anglais, and to the other, the colorful, bustling Port Lympia, dotted with luxurious yachts and traditional fishing boats. I spent a good hour just soaking it all in, snapping countless photos, and marveling at the sheer beauty of the Côte d’Azur. The park on Castle Hill is also home to a charming man-made waterfall, ancient ruins, and plenty of shady spots to relax. It’s a perfect place for a quiet moment or a picnic.

After descending, I walked along the edge of Port Lympia, admiring the sleek vessels and the pastel-colored buildings that frame the harbor. The atmosphere here felt a little different from the Old Town – more refined, yet still distinctly Niçoise. I grabbed a casual lunch at a small cafe overlooking the port, enjoying a fresh pan bagnat, a classic Niçoise sandwich bursting with tuna, olives, hard-boiled eggs, and fresh vegetables, all soaked in olive oil. It was messy, but utterly delicious.

In the afternoon, I decided to venture slightly beyond Nice’s immediate city limits, taking a scenic walk along the coastal path towards Villefranche-sur-Mer. While I didn’t go all the way to Villefranche on foot (it’s a good hour’s walk or more), even a portion of the path offered stunning views of hidden coves, dramatic cliffs, and the ever-present turquoise sea. The air was fresh, carrying the scent of pine and salt, and the gentle rhythm of the waves provided a calming soundtrack. This walk truly solidified my love for the natural beauty of the French Riviera.

As the sun began its descent once more, I found myself back near the Promenade, opting for a different kind of sunset experience. Instead of the blue chairs, I settled onto the pebbled beach itself, feeling the smooth, warm stones beneath me. The sky put on another spectacular show, and the distant lights of the city began to twinkle. For dinner, I sought out a restaurant known for its fresh seafood, indulging in perfectly grilled fish, accompanied by local vegetables and, of course, another glass of rosé. The simple, fresh flavors were a testament to the region’s culinary excellence.

• Practical Tips for Day 2:
  • Castle Hill: Take the free elevator near the end of the Promenade des Anglais (Quai des États-Unis) for an easy ascent, or enjoy the stairs for a bit of exercise. Best visited in the morning for cooler temperatures and clearer light.
  • Port Lympia: A lovely area for a stroll, admire the boats, and enjoy a waterfront meal.
  • Coastal Walk: The path towards Villefranche-sur-Mer offers incredible views. You can take bus #15 or #100 from Nice to reach Villefranche if you prefer not to walk the whole way.

Day 3: Eze & Monaco – Medieval Charm and Modern Glamour

Day three was dedicated to a classic French Riviera day trip, venturing to the perched medieval village of Eze and the opulent principality of Monaco. Getting there was easy, with efficient public transport connecting these gems. I opted for the bus to Eze, specifically bus #82 or #112, as the winding coastal road offered breathtaking views that the train simply can’t match.

Eze Village is nothing short of a fairytale. Perched high on a rocky outcrop overlooking the Mediterranean, this ancient village is a maze of narrow, cobblestone pathways, hidden archways, and stone buildings adorned with vibrant bougainvillea. It felt like stepping back in time, a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Nice. The highlight for me was the Jardin Exotique, a stunning botanical garden built on the ruins of a medieval fortress. From here, the panoramic views of the coastline, stretching from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to Italy, were simply out of this world. Cacti and succulents thrived in the sunny climate, creating a unique and beautiful landscape against the backdrop of the azure sea. Before leaving Eze, I also took a brief tour of the Fragonard Perfume Factory, learning about the intricate process of perfume making and sampling some exquisite scents.

Lunch in Eze was a delightful affair at a small creperie, enjoying savory galettes and sweet crepes while soaking in the village’s timeless atmosphere.

Next, I took another short bus ride (or you could take the train from Eze-sur-Mer, down the hill) to Monaco. The contrast was immediate and striking. From the ancient, rustic charm of Eze, I was plunged into a world of polished marble, gleaming skyscrapers, and an undeniable aura of wealth. My first stop was the Prince’s Palace, the official residence of the Prince of Monaco, perched on “The Rock.” I arrived just in time to witness the changing of the guard, a ceremony steeped in tradition. Strolling through the immaculate streets of Monaco-Ville, the old town, offered charming views and a sense of history amidst the modernity.

Of course, no visit to Monaco is complete without a glimpse of Monte Carlo. The famous Monte Carlo Casino, an architectural masterpiece, stood proudly, surrounded by luxury cars that looked like works of art. While I didn’t try my luck at the tables, simply witnessing the grandeur of the casino and the surrounding “Golden Square” was an experience in itself. The harbor below, filled with superyachts, was another testament to the principality’s extravagant lifestyle. It was a fascinating glimpse into a world of extreme luxury, a stark and intriguing counterpoint to the more down-to-earth beauty of Nice.

Returning to Nice by train as the sun set, I felt a delightful exhaustion. For dinner, I opted for something simple and comforting, finding a cozy Italian trattoria (a testament to Nice’s Italian influences) and enjoying a delicious pasta dish, reflecting on the day’s incredible contrasts.

• Practical Tips for Day 3:
  • Transportation: For Eze, take bus #82 or #112 from Nice’s Vauban station or Promenade des Arts for the most scenic route. For Monaco, you can take a bus from Eze or the train from Eze-sur-Mer (requires a walk down from Eze village). The train from Nice to Monaco is also very efficient.
  • Eze: Wear good walking shoes for the cobblestones and inclines. The Exotic Garden has an entrance fee but is well worth it for the views.
  • Monaco: Dress respectably, especially if you plan to enter the casino (smart casual is usually fine, no shorts/flip-flops). The changing of the guard at the Palace is usually at 11:55 AM.

Day 4: Art, Authentic Markets & Local Flavors

After two days of intense sightseeing, I decided to embrace a slightly more relaxed pace, focusing on Nice’s artistic heritage and delving deeper into its local markets.

My morning began at the Marché de la Libération, a bustling local market that felt more authentic and less tourist-oriented than Cours Saleya. Located near the Liberation tram stop, this market offered a genuine slice of Niçoise life. Here, I found a vibrant array of fresh produce, cheeses, meats, and local specialties. The air was filled with the lively chatter of vendors and shoppers, and the scent of fresh herbs and ripe fruit was intoxicating. I picked up some delicious local cheese, fresh bread, and juicy olives, planning a simple picnic lunch.

From the market, I took a short tram ride to the Cimiez neighborhood, a leafy, upscale area north of the city center, known for its Roman ruins and museums. My destination was the Musée Matisse, dedicated to the works of Henri Matisse, who spent the latter part of his life in Nice. Housed in a beautiful 17th-century Genoese villa, the museum offers a comprehensive overview of his artistic evolution. Seeing his vibrant, colorful works, from early paintings to his famous cut-outs, in the very city that inspired so much of his creativity, was a truly moving experience. The light in Nice, which Matisse himself often spoke of, seemed to bring his art to life.

Just a short walk from the Matisse Museum is the Musée National Marc Chagall, another artistic gem. This museum is dedicated to Chagall’s biblical message series, a collection of large, intensely spiritual paintings. While different in style from Matisse, Chagall’s use of color and his profound narrative also felt deeply connected to the vibrant spirit of the Côte d’Azur. Spending an afternoon immersed in such beauty was a truly enriching experience.

After my cultural immersion, I found a quiet bench in the gardens near the Matisse Museum, enjoying my market-bought picnic. The simple flavors of fresh bread, cheese, and olives tasted even better amidst the serene surroundings, a perfect blend of local produce and artistic inspiration.

As the afternoon wound down, I strolled back towards the city center, stopping at a charming sidewalk café for a coffee and some serious people-watching. It’s these unscripted moments, observing local life unfold, that often become the most cherished memories of a trip. For my final dinner in Nice, I ventured away from the main tourist areas, seeking out a small, family-run restaurant that had been recommended by a local I met at the market. It was a true hidden gem, serving exquisite homemade pasta and a delicious fish soup, accompanied by warm, friendly service. It felt like a true local experience, a fitting end to a day dedicated to authentic Niçoise life.

• Practical Tips for Day 4:
  • Marché de la Libération: Open Tuesday to Sunday mornings. It’s a great place to experience a more local market vibe and pick up picnic supplies.
  • Museums: The Matisse Museum and Chagall Museum are both located in the Cimiez neighborhood and are easily accessible by bus (e.g., bus #5 from Promenade des Arts for Matisse, or #5 and #15 for Chagall). Check opening hours, as they often close on Tuesdays. Consider a “French Riviera Pass” if you plan to visit multiple museums and attractions.
  • Lunch: A picnic with items from the market is a delightful and budget-friendly option.

Day 5: Beach Bliss & A Fond Farewell

My final day in Nice was a bittersweet one. I wanted to soak up every last drop of its magic before heading home. I decided to dedicate the morning to what the French Riviera is perhaps most famous for: its beautiful beaches. While Nice’s beaches are pebbled rather than sandy, they offer an equally inviting experience.

I made my way to the Promenade des Anglais one last time, finding a spot on the beach that felt just right. The sun was already warm, and the sea, in its characteristic mesmerizing blue, looked utterly inviting. I rented a beach chair and umbrella from one of the private beach clubs, allowing myself the luxury of comfort for my final hours by the sea. The feeling of the warm pebbles beneath me, the gentle rush of the waves, and the vast expanse of the Mediterranean stretching to the horizon was incredibly soothing. I dipped my toes in the surprisingly cool water, then slowly ventured in for a refreshing swim. The clarity of the water was astounding, and the feeling of floating in the Baie des Anges was pure bliss.

After a leisurely morning of sunbathing, swimming, and simply relishing the moment, I headed back towards the Old Town for a final souvenir hunt. I browsed the charming boutiques, picking up some local lavender products, a bottle of regional olive oil, and a small, colorful piece of pottery as a memento of my trip. These small treasures felt like tangible reminders of the sensory delights I had experienced.

For my last meal in Nice, I chose a charming restaurant with an outdoor terrace, overlooking a bustling square in the Old Town. I ordered a final salade Niçoise, wanting to savor its fresh flavors one more time, paired with a glass of local white wine. It was a moment of quiet reflection, watching the vibrant life of Nice unfold around me, feeling a deep sense of contentment and gratitude.

As the afternoon drew to a close, it was time to reluctantly make my way back to the airport. The taxi ride along the Promenade, which had been filled with anticipation just five days prior, was now tinged with a nostalgic fondness. Looking out at the endless blue sea, I felt a profound connection to this beautiful city. Nice had not just met my expectations; it had surpassed them, weaving its way into my heart with its charm, its colors, its flavors, and its undeniable spirit.

• Practical Tips for Day 5:
  • Beach Experience: If you’re sensitive to pebbles, consider bringing water shoes. Many public sections of the beach are free, or you can rent chairs and umbrellas at private beach clubs for a more comfortable experience.
  • Souvenirs: Look for local olive oil, lavender products, pottery, or items with the iconic “N” of Nice.
  • Airport Transfer: Taxis are readily available, or you can take the tram (Line 2) directly from the city center to the airport.

My Lasting Love Affair with the French Riviera

Leaving Nice felt like saying goodbye to a dear friend. In just five days, this captivating city had completely enchanted me, proving that the French Riviera is so much more than just a glamorous postcard image. It’s a place where history whispers from ancient stone walls, where art comes alive in vibrant colors, and where every meal is a celebration of fresh, local flavors.

From the bustling markets and the sun-drenched beaches to the breathtaking views from Castle Hill and the charming labyrinth of Vieux Nice, every moment was a discovery. The day trip to Eze offered a glimpse into medieval serenity, while Monaco provided a fascinating contrast of modern opulence. Nice, however, remained my anchor, a city that felt both timeless and wonderfully alive.

If you’re dreaming of a European escape, a journey that combines cultural richness with stunning natural beauty and a relaxed pace of life, then Nice and the French Riviera should be at the very top of your list. This itinerary is just a starting point, a blueprint for experiencing the best of the region. But the true magic of Nice lies in its ability to surprise and delight you at every turn. Allow yourself to wander, to taste, to listen, and to simply be present. I promise you, like me, you’ll fall head over heels in love with the inimitable charm of the Côte d’Azur, and you’ll find yourself already planning your return before you’ve even left. Go, discover its magic for yourself.