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Nice & Beyond: My Perfect 14-Day French Riviera Adventure Guide

There are some destinations that simply call to you, whispers on the wind promising sun-drenched days, azure waters, and an intoxicating blend of history and glamour. For me, that destination was the French Riviera, and at its heart, the vibrant city of Nice. I’d always dreamed of exploring the Côte d’Azur, not just as a fleeting stop, but as a place to truly settle into, to peel back its layers and discover its soul. Two weeks felt like the perfect amount of time to achieve this – enough to immerse ourselves in Nice itself, but also to venture out and uncover the many treasures scattered along this glittering coastline.

Nice, with its iconic Promenade des Anglais, the charming labyrinth of Vieux Nice (Old Town), and its unique pebble beaches, offers a perfect blend of urban vibrancy and Mediterranean tranquility. It’s a city that effortlessly marries old-world charm with modern chic, where you can spend your morning haggling for fresh produce at a local market and your afternoon admiring world-class art. Beyond its immediate allure, Nice serves as an ideal base for exploring the wider French Riviera, allowing for easy day trips to picturesque hilltop villages, glamorous coastal towns, and even a tiny principality. This was our vision: a two-week odyssey that promised not just a vacation, but a true immersion into the Provençal way of life, filled with incredible food, breathtaking views, and unforgettable moments. And let me tell you, it delivered.

Here’s how we spent our incredible 14 days, packed with personal discoveries, delicious bites, and practical tips to help you plan your own unforgettable French Riviera escape.

Day 1: Arrival & Vieux Nice Immersion

Stepping off the plane at Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, the warm Mediterranean air immediately enveloped us, carrying a hint of salt and something distinctly Provençal – perhaps lavender or fresh herbs. We opted for the tram, a wonderfully efficient and inexpensive way to reach our charming Airbnb located just a few blocks from the Old Town. After dropping our bags, the first order of business was to get lost, quite literally, in Vieux Nice.

The Old Town is a sensory explosion. Its narrow, winding streets, painted in ochre, terracotta, and soft pastels, feel like a step back in time. Laundry flutters from windows above, and the scent of freshly baked bread mingles with the aroma of simmering tomato sauce from hidden trattorias. We wandered without a map, letting the vibrant energy guide us. We stumbled upon the beautiful Palais de Justice, admired the intricate Baroque architecture of Sainte-Réparate Cathedral, and simply soaked in the atmosphere. For dinner, we settled on a small, unpretentious place tucked away on Rue Pairolière, where I savored my first authentic Niçoise salad – the freshest tuna, plump tomatoes, crisp lettuce, and olives, all drizzled with local olive oil. It was simple perfection.

• Practical Tip: Don’t be afraid to get lost in Vieux Nice. Some of the best discoveries are made by simply wandering. Wear comfortable shoes, as the cobblestones can be uneven.
• Where to Eat: Look for local spots in the heart of Vieux Nice; many offer authentic Niçoise cuisine. Try socca, a chickpea flour pancake, from a street vendor for a true local snack.

Day 2: Promenade & Castle Hill Views

Our second day was dedicated to Nice’s most iconic landmarks. We started with a leisurely stroll along the Promenade des Anglais, the famous coastal walkway stretching for miles. The deep blue of the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) was mesmerizing, and the sound of the waves crashing against the pebble beach was incredibly soothing. We even dipped our toes into the surprisingly clear water, the smooth pebbles a unique sensation underfoot.

From the Promenade, we made our way to Castle Hill (Colline du Château). You can take a lift, but we chose the stairs, enjoying the panoramic views that unfolded with every step. The reward at the top was breathtaking: a sweeping vista of Nice, the Promenade, the sparkling coastline stretching to the horizon, and the red rooftops of the Old Town nestled below. We spent a good hour up there, exploring the ruins of the old castle, admiring the cascading waterfall, and simply basking in the sunshine. It’s the kind of view that imprints itself on your memory. We grabbed a quick lunch from a boulangerie – a delicious baguette sandwich with local cheese and ham – and enjoyed it on a bench overlooking the sea.

• Practical Tip: Go up Castle Hill in the late afternoon for incredible golden hour lighting, perfect for photos. The lift is free and saves your legs if you prefer.
• Must-Do: Pack a picnic to enjoy at the top of Castle Hill; there are plenty of spots with stunning views.

Day 3: Art & Culture – Matisse & Chagall

Nice has a rich artistic heritage, and we dedicated our third day to exploring it. We started with the Matisse Museum, located in the residential Cimiez neighborhood. Housed in a beautiful 17th-century Genoese villa, the museum offers an intimate look into the life and work of Henri Matisse, who spent a significant part of his life in Nice. Seeing his vibrant cut-outs and early works up close was truly inspiring.

Later, we visited the Marc Chagall National Museum, which houses the artist’s magnificent Biblical Message series. The sheer scale and spiritual intensity of these works left a profound impression. The museum itself is a peaceful, light-filled space, designed with Chagall’s input. We took our time, letting the vibrant colors and symbolic imagery wash over us. The gardens surrounding both museums also offer a lovely respite. We took the local bus to reach Cimiez, which was an easy and scenic ride.

• Practical Tip: Consider purchasing the French Riviera Pass if you plan to visit multiple museums and attractions; it can offer good value. Check opening hours, as many museums close on Tuesdays.
• Local Secret: After the museums, explore the Roman ruins and olive groves in Parc des Arènes de Cimiez nearby for a peaceful stroll.

Day 4: Market Delights & Culinary Exploration

No visit to Nice is complete without experiencing the vibrant Cours Saleya market. We arrived early on a beautiful sunny morning, and the market was already bustling with activity. The air was fragrant with fresh flowers, ripe fruits, and the earthy scent of vegetables. We browsed the stalls, admiring the colorful displays of peonies, roses, and local produce. Beyond the flowers, there are also stalls selling local cheeses, olives, spices, and artisanal goods. We picked up some sun-dried tomatoes and a fragrant block of local soap as souvenirs.

In the afternoon, we decided to dive deeper into Niçoise cuisine with a cooking class. We learned to make classic dishes like pissaladière (onion tart), petits farcis (stuffed vegetables), and, of course, a proper Niçoise salad. It was a hands-on, delicious experience, culminating in enjoying the meal we had prepared with our small group. This was one of the highlights of our trip, offering a true taste of local life and culinary traditions.

• Practical Tip: The Cours Saleya flower market is best visited in the morning. On Mondays, it transforms into an antiques market (Marché à la Brocante).
• Foodie Must-Do: Look for cooking classes online or ask your accommodation for recommendations. It’s a fantastic way to learn about local ingredients and techniques.

Day 5: Day Trip to Èze & Monaco

This was our first venture out of Nice, and it was a spectacular one. We took the scenic bus route (Bus 82 or 112) to Èze, a medieval hilltop village perched dramatically above the sea. The journey itself offered breathtaking views of the coastline. Èze is truly enchanting, with its narrow, cobbled streets winding uphill, ancient stone buildings draped in bougainvillea, and artisan shops tucked into every nook. The highlight is the Exotic Garden (Jardin Exotique) at the very top, built on the ruins of a medieval castle. The cacti and succulents are impressive, but it’s the panoramic views of the Mediterranean, stretching all the way to Corsica on a clear day, that truly steal the show.

From Èze, it was an easy bus ride to Monaco. The contrast was stark: from ancient tranquility to modern opulence. We explored Monte Carlo, marveled at the superyachts in the harbor, and tried our luck (unsuccessfully!) at the famous Monte Carlo Casino. We also visited Monaco-Ville, the old town, to see the Prince’s Palace and the stunning Monaco Cathedral. It’s a place of incredible wealth and glamour, almost theatrical in its extravagance.

• Practical Tip: For Èze, wear sturdy shoes as the cobblestones are steep and can be slippery. Purchase bus tickets from the driver or a tabac. The buses can get crowded, especially in peak season.
• Budget Tip: While Monaco can be expensive, simply walking around and soaking in the atmosphere is free. Pack a picnic lunch to save money.

Day 6: Coastal Charm – Villefranche-sur-Mer

After the busy Èze and Monaco day, we craved something a bit more relaxed. Villefranche-sur-Mer, just a short train or bus ride from Nice, was the perfect antidote. This charming fishing village boasts one of the most beautiful natural harbors in the Mediterranean. We spent the morning wandering through its colorful old town, admiring the pastel-colored houses cascading down to the sea. The Rue Obscure, a vaulted street running beneath the houses, was a unique discovery.

We then settled onto the sandy beach (a welcome change from Nice’s pebbles!) and enjoyed the warm sun and gentle waves. The water here is incredibly clear and inviting. For lunch, we found a delightful restaurant right on the waterfront, savoring fresh seafood while watching the boats bob in the harbor. It felt like a postcard come to life – laid-back, beautiful, and utterly charming.

• Practical Tip: Villefranche-sur-Mer is easily accessible by train from Nice-Ville station (just one stop) or by local bus. The beach here is sandy, which some people prefer over Nice’s pebbles.
• Hidden Gem: Visit the Chapelle Saint-Pierre, decorated by Jean Cocteau, for a unique artistic experience.

Day 7: Relaxation & Beach Day

Mid-trip, we decided to dedicate a full day to pure relaxation. We started with a leisurely breakfast at a local café, savoring croissants and strong coffee. Then, it was off to the beach. We rented sun loungers and an umbrella at one of the private beach clubs on the Promenade des Anglais. While it costs a bit more, having comfortable loungers, service, and easy access to facilities made for a truly luxurious and relaxing experience.

We spent hours swimming in the unbelievably blue water, reading, and simply watching the world go by. The sun felt incredible, and the gentle lapping of the waves was the perfect soundtrack. In the late afternoon, we enjoyed a refreshing gelato from Fenocchio in Vieux Nice – a must-try with its incredible array of unique flavors. We ended the day with a simple, delicious meal at a pizzeria near our apartment, reflecting on the beauty and peace of a day well spent.

• Practical Tip: Private beach clubs offer comfort and amenities for a fee (typically 20-30 Euros per person for a day). Public beaches are free, but you’ll need to bring your own towel and be comfortable on pebbles.
• Sweet Treat: Fenocchio Glacier in Vieux Nice offers an astonishing variety of ice cream and sorbet flavors, from traditional to lavender and tomato-basil. Don’t miss it!

Day 8: Day Trip to Cannes & Antibes

Another day, another captivating journey along the coast. We took the train to Cannes, famous for its film festival and glamorous Croisette. We walked along the palm-lined boulevard, admired the luxury hotels, and even posed on the red carpet steps of the Palais des Festivals. It’s certainly a place of glitz and showmanship, very different from Nice’s more understated elegance.

From Cannes, we continued by train to Antibes, a town that stole a piece of my heart. Antibes offers a wonderful contrast to Cannes’ modern glamour, with its charming old town, ancient ramparts, and picturesque port. We wandered through the narrow, cobbled streets of Vieil Antibes, discovered hidden squares, and then explored the Picasso Museum, housed in the magnificent Château Grimaldi where Picasso himself worked. The museum offers incredible views of the sea, which surely inspired the artist. The Marche Provençal, a covered market, was also a delight, overflowing with fresh produce, cheeses, and local delicacies.

• Practical Tip: The train is the most efficient way to travel between Nice, Cannes, and Antibes. Buy your tickets at the station or through the SNCF app.
• Must-See in Antibes: Don’t miss the views from the ramparts, especially near the Picasso Museum.

Day 9: Saint-Paul-de-Vence & Vence

Today was all about exploring the artistic hilltop villages that dot the landscape behind the coast. We took a bus (Bus 400 from Nice) to Saint-Paul-de-Vence, a truly magical place. This medieval fortified village is renowned for its art galleries and studios, attracting artists for centuries. The stone walls, winding streets, and stunning views of the countryside are incredibly inspiring. We spent hours browsing the galleries, admiring the sculptures, and simply soaking in the timeless atmosphere. The Fondation Maeght, a famous modern art museum just outside the village, is also a must-visit if you have time.

After lunch in Saint-Paul-de-Vence, we took a local bus to the nearby town of Vence. Vence is less touristy than Saint-Paul, offering a more authentic glimpse into local life. Its old town is also charming, but the real draw here is the Chapelle du Rosaire, designed and decorated by Henri Matisse. Stepping inside this small chapel, with its vibrant stained glass and simple, profound murals, felt like a truly sacred and artistic experience. It was a beautiful culmination to our artistic journey.

• Practical Tip: The bus to Saint-Paul-de-Vence can be very busy, especially in peak season. Consider going early in the morning. Wear comfortable shoes for the hilly, cobbled streets.
• Art Lover’s Dream: If time permits, visit the Fondation Maeght near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, one of the most important private art foundations in France.

Day 10: Perfume & Gardens – Grasse & Gourdon

Today, we ventured inland to the world capital of perfume, Grasse. We took a train from Nice, and the journey offered lovely views of the inland countryside. In Grasse, we visited the Fragonard Perfume Factory, taking a fascinating free tour that explained the process of perfume making, from flower fields to finished product. The scent of jasmine and roses lingered in the air, and it was incredible to learn about the intricate art of perfumery. Of course, we couldn’t resist picking up a few fragrant souvenirs.

In the afternoon, we hired a taxi to take us to Gourdon, another stunning “perched village” that feels like it’s floating in the sky. The drive itself was incredibly scenic, winding through dramatic gorges and offering panoramic views of the Loup Valley. Gourdon is tiny but incredibly picturesque, with its medieval castle and breathtaking vistas. We enjoyed a coffee at a small cafe, simply gazing out at the vast landscape below. It was a perfect blend of culture and natural beauty.

• Practical Tip: Many perfume factories in Grasse (Fragonard, Molinard, Galimard) offer free tours. It’s a great way to learn about the history of perfume.
• Scenic Drive: If you’re comfortable driving, renting a car for a day trip to Grasse and Gourdon allows for more flexibility and access to the stunning Gorges du Loup.

Day 11: Nice Hidden Gems & Local Life

After several days of day trips, we decided to dedicate a day to uncovering more of Nice’s local charm beyond the main tourist spots. We started by exploring the Liberation market (Marché de la Libération), a bustling local market north of the city center. This market is where locals shop for fresh produce, fish, and baked goods. It felt much more authentic than Cours Saleya, with its lively chatter and genuine energy. We bought some incredible fresh fruit and local cheese for a picnic.

Later, we took a tram ride to a different neighborhood, just to see more of everyday Nice. We wandered through residential streets, admired the Belle Époque architecture, and discovered a lovely park where children were playing. We found a small, family-run restaurant for lunch that served incredibly fresh pasta, clearly a local favorite. It was a day of slow exploration, allowing us to feel more connected to the rhythm of the city and its people.

• Practical Tip: Take advantage of Nice’s excellent tram system to explore different neighborhoods. A single ticket is valid for 74 minutes and allows transfers.
• Local Experience: Don’t be afraid to venture a bit off the main tourist paths to find more authentic local experiences and eateries.

Day 12: Day Trip to Menton & Italian Border

For our penultimate day trip, we headed east to Menton, the “Pearl of France,” located right on the Italian border. The train ride hugging the coastline was stunning. Menton is known for its vibrant colors, lush gardens, and, most famously, its lemons. The old town is a cascade of brightly painted houses, leading down to a charming port. We visited the Jean Cocteau Museum, dedicated to the artist’s work, and then explored the beautiful Biovès Gardens.

The highlight was simply wandering the narrow, steep streets of the old town, admiring the colorful facades and the unique architecture that blends French and Italian influences. We had lunch at a restaurant overlooking the harbor, enjoying some delicious seafood with an Italian twist. We even walked a few steps across the border into Italy, just for the fun of it! Menton felt like a hidden gem, less crowded than some other Riviera towns but equally, if not more, charming.

• Practical Tip: Menton is easily reached by train from Nice. If you’re there in February, don’t miss the Fête du Citron (Lemon Festival), when the town is adorned with incredible citrus sculptures.
• Don’t Forget: Bring your passport if you want to technically step into Italy, though the border crossing is very relaxed.

Day 13: Last Souvenirs & Farewell Dinner

Our final full day in Nice was dedicated to revisiting some favorite spots and soaking in the last moments. We started with a final stroll through Vieux Nice, picking up some last-minute souvenirs – a bottle of local olive oil, a small painting from a street artist, and some fragrant lavender sachets. We revisited the Cours Saleya market, this time just to enjoy the atmosphere and grab a final socca.

In the afternoon, we decided to simply relax by the Promenade, enjoying the views and reminiscing about our two weeks. For our farewell dinner, we chose a slightly more upscale restaurant near the port, indulging in delicious fresh seafood and a bottle of crisp Provençal rosé. It was a perfect evening, reflecting on the incredible journey we had experienced, the beauty we had witnessed, and the flavors we had savored. Nice had truly captured our hearts.

• Practical Tip: For unique souvenirs, look beyond the main tourist shops. Explore artisan boutiques in Vieux Nice or the markets for local products.
• Dining Out: Make reservations for popular restaurants, especially for dinner, to avoid disappointment.

Day 14: Departure

On our last morning, we enjoyed a final French breakfast – pain au chocolat and coffee – at a small cafe near our apartment. With heavy hearts but full of wonderful memories, we made our way back to Nice Côte d’Azur Airport, already planning our return.

Our two weeks exploring Nice and the French Riviera were everything we hoped for and more. It was a journey of discovery, blending the vibrant energy of a city with the serene beauty of the coastline and the timeless charm of hilltop villages. We ate incredible food, met friendly locals, and created memories that will last a lifetime. This itinerary allowed us to experience the essence of the Côte d’Azur, from its glamorous side to its authentic heart.

If you’re dreaming of a sun-drenched escape filled with culture, cuisine, and breathtaking scenery, the French Riviera awaits. I genuinely hope our journey inspires you to plan your own adventure. Nice is truly the perfect gateway to this incredible region, and with a little planning, you can craft a two-week itinerary that will leave you utterly enchanted, just as we were. Go on, start planning your own unforgettable Riviera escape; you won’t regret it!